Stage one was getting to Prague in time for a five a side football tournament this coming weekend.
Rewinding a little, Regensburg has a nice historic city centre, which apparently we deigned to not destroy int wars, although now it is under a smouldering pile of tour groups, fresh off their river cruise ships just like the ones you see on those TV ads.
Also, while the campsite was indeed for canoeists and cyclists only, they were having a birthday party for one of the members that went on until about 4am....
So I eschewed the worlds oldest hot dog takeaway and escaped as fast as possible on a disused and fortunately shady railway line, wiggling vaguely towards the Czech border.
Much relief to camp at a small site in the woods and get a quiet night - though the morning was anything but, with thunder cracking all around. I love a good thunderstorm - well, when I know I'm going to stay dry anyway.
Monday was the definition of rolling hills, largely capped with forest, one capped with an old NATO listening tower from the first cold war, and after one last German backerei I crossed the now inconspicuous border.
I was going to treat myself to some Czech home comforts at a penzion, but the one I aimed for turned out to be closed so had a nice wild camp instead, just me and some deer, and the fireflies
Scenery is pleasant if unspectacular, lots of fading yellow and orange buildings in villages with inevitable fish ponds but no obvious helpful water supplies. Somehow managed to do more vertical metres here than in Switzerland?
Yesterday Martin and Tesh cycled out a few km from Prague to escort me into the city, where I have been able to buy some spare bolts to stop my front pannier rack falling off.
Now the bike is locked away for a few days respite before the next sprint to Berlin...
Yes! New and exciting! Video highlights of the Czech Republic! Note this is not a commitment to produce a video for every country etc.
July 18th 19th
Short day today climbing into the Krkonoše (also known as the Giant Mountains - although there will be more gigantic mountains to come no doubt!) to arrive in the ski resort of Harrachov for a day off at a slightly dilapidated but functionally cosy (and cheap) hotel.
To intensify the recovery I visited a beer spa, where yes, you lay in a bath of hot beer and hops for half an hour to ferment. Maybe a bit gimmicky but it was extremely relaxing.
Spent the time mentally recapping the trip so far. Its only been about 2 weeks but feels like ages! I haven't been averaging as many km as originally planned, but have had a lot of tourist stops, and there are a lot of hills compared to those endless flat days in Holland last time around.
Have downloaded elevation profiles to use rather than the unreliable gps altitude, so can hopefully get more accurate ascent statistics, although probably need to reupload all the gpx tracks to date. Doable.
Was contemplating a hike to some nearby peaks but leg aches and forecast showers are making me sluggish!
Dragged myself out in the afternoon and did 15 miles, crossing the border to Poland and hitting a summit at 1300m.
Had to take a detour as a trail was shut due to nesting birds; Google translate said "if you wake the trumpets you might kill them" so I thought I better go around. To minimize the detour took a small track which soon disappeared and left me bashing through thick forest following GPS, eventually coming out on a a forestry track that looked like a warzone. Still, bilberries are in season and they see everywhere.
Next target is the highest peak in Czech, Snezka (1600m) Have moved around to a different base camp to start this hike, which unfortunately meant coming all the way down to the lowlands and back up again! Arrrr my calves are demanding a day off, which they are now duly getting.
These mountains are really geared up for summer tourists, with buses and ski lifts offering to carry bikes up the mountain, and scooters and ebike rentals everywhere.
By scooters I mean big wheel, gravel tracks scooters, not the kids ones we have in the UK. OK, picture required:
I do get some curious glances as I struggle to the top of some of these summits with my luggage laden tourer, but i hope i make people on e-mountain bikes and the Lycra brigade reassess their achievements when they're enjoying their celebratory ice cream!
Also loads of paragliders out today, and more alpine villages of chocolate box wooden chata, and wood carvings of bears and the local "Man of the mountains" bloke?
Now settled in a penzion having a relax and contemplating routes for hiking tomorrow...
Short day today climbing into the Krkonoše (also known as the Giant Mountains - although there will be more gigantic mountains to come no doubt!) to arrive in the ski resort of Harrachov for a day off at a slightly dilapidated but functionally cosy (and cheap) hotel.
To intensify the recovery I visited a beer spa, where yes, you lay in a bath of hot beer and hops for half an hour to ferment. Maybe a bit gimmicky but it was extremely relaxing.
Spent the time mentally recapping the trip so far. Its only been about 2 weeks but feels like ages! I haven't been averaging as many km as originally planned, but have had a lot of tourist stops, and there are a lot of hills compared to those endless flat days in Holland last time around.
Have downloaded elevation profiles to use rather than the unreliable gps altitude, so can hopefully get more accurate ascent statistics, although probably need to reupload all the gpx tracks to date. Doable.
Was contemplating a hike to some nearby peaks but leg aches and forecast showers are making me sluggish!
Dragged myself out in the afternoon and did 15 miles, crossing the border to Poland and hitting a summit at 1300m.
Had to take a detour as a trail was shut due to nesting birds; Google translate said "if you wake the trumpets you might kill them" so I thought I better go around. To minimize the detour took a small track which soon disappeared and left me bashing through thick forest following GPS, eventually coming out on a a forestry track that looked like a warzone. Still, bilberries are in season and they see everywhere.
Next target is the highest peak in Czech, Snezka (1600m) Have moved around to a different base camp to start this hike, which unfortunately meant coming all the way down to the lowlands and back up again! Arrrr my calves are demanding a day off, which they are now duly getting.
These mountains are really geared up for summer tourists, with buses and ski lifts offering to carry bikes up the mountain, and scooters and ebike rentals everywhere.
By scooters I mean big wheel, gravel tracks scooters, not the kids ones we have in the UK. OK, picture required:
I do get some curious glances as I struggle to the top of some of these summits with my luggage laden tourer, but i hope i make people on e-mountain bikes and the Lycra brigade reassess their achievements when they're enjoying their celebratory ice cream!
Also loads of paragliders out today, and more alpine villages of chocolate box wooden chata, and wood carvings of bears and the local "Man of the mountains" bloke?
Now settled in a penzion having a relax and contemplating routes for hiking tomorrow...
14th july
Setting off again refreshed and rejuvenated, there are still thundery showers but afterwards a beautiful smell of cut pine, and sight of steam rising from the forest, birds of prey hovering over fields.
Headwind again, why is it always a headwind
Arrived at Kutna Hora, which once rivalled Prague until its silver mines dried up.
Has several UNESCO listed sites, including another ossuary, thought this one was decorated using the bones rather than just tastefully stacking them. Quite the goth pilgrimage.
At the campsite I meet a kiwi couple in a camper van, tuned into the cricket world cup final. What a ridiculous ending to a game! To add to the excitement, the radio keeps cutting out at crucial moments.
I can't decide if the england win is the most dramatic of victories of slightly hollow given it is on a technicality after a tie game!
July 15th
Heading north for Mlada Boleslav and the skoda museum. Though it closed at 6 but closed at 5 so didn't need to rush.
Nice section along a river, hopefully a taste of what's to come on the Danube later.
Decided to go to Skoda in the morning tomorrow, so stopped for a goulash and some beers and camped on a hilltop with some old fort earthworks. Panoramic views with the sunset one way and the moon rising the other.
July 16th
Skoda museum, interesting. This factory was started in 1895 by two blokes making bicycles as they were dissatisfied with some they had bought from a German firm. Merged with Skoda between the wars.
Nice selection of historic vehicles and racing cars.
Onwards to Czesky Raj, a region famed for rocky outcrops. And containing lots of castles obviously. Flew the drone around a bit.
July 17th
More rocks.
Started the day by climbing the iconic twin towers of Trosky castle, then some short hikes around Hruska Skala and Besedice rocks, with their mazes of eroded sandstone pillars and such like. That took most of the day so just did 30km in the evening and camped on a hilltop.
Setting off again refreshed and rejuvenated, there are still thundery showers but afterwards a beautiful smell of cut pine, and sight of steam rising from the forest, birds of prey hovering over fields.
Headwind again, why is it always a headwind
Arrived at Kutna Hora, which once rivalled Prague until its silver mines dried up.
Has several UNESCO listed sites, including another ossuary, thought this one was decorated using the bones rather than just tastefully stacking them. Quite the goth pilgrimage.
At the campsite I meet a kiwi couple in a camper van, tuned into the cricket world cup final. What a ridiculous ending to a game! To add to the excitement, the radio keeps cutting out at crucial moments.
I can't decide if the england win is the most dramatic of victories of slightly hollow given it is on a technicality after a tie game!
July 15th
Heading north for Mlada Boleslav and the skoda museum. Though it closed at 6 but closed at 5 so didn't need to rush.
Nice section along a river, hopefully a taste of what's to come on the Danube later.
Decided to go to Skoda in the morning tomorrow, so stopped for a goulash and some beers and camped on a hilltop with some old fort earthworks. Panoramic views with the sunset one way and the moon rising the other.
July 16th
Skoda museum, interesting. This factory was started in 1895 by two blokes making bicycles as they were dissatisfied with some they had bought from a German firm. Merged with Skoda between the wars.
Nice selection of historic vehicles and racing cars.
Onwards to Czesky Raj, a region famed for rocky outcrops. And containing lots of castles obviously. Flew the drone around a bit.
July 17th
More rocks.
Started the day by climbing the iconic twin towers of Trosky castle, then some short hikes around Hruska Skala and Besedice rocks, with their mazes of eroded sandstone pillars and such like. That took most of the day so just did 30km in the evening and camped on a hilltop.